How to Spot a Fake / KAWS
Authentication GuideHow to Spot a Fake KAWS Companion Figure
KAWS Companions are among the most counterfeited collectibles on earth — in independent comparisons, roughly half of the KAWS toys examined turned out to be fake. This is the deepest authentication walkthrough we publish, and for good reason. Modern KAWS releases are produced under MEDICOM TOY / AllRightsReserved / DDT and ship with an embedded NFC chip tied to the One COA (KAWSONE) registry — so on any current-era figure, the first move is to scan the chip. Then confirm the molded underside stamp, the XX eyes, the vinyl weight and paint, the correct release scale, and the box. This guide takes each in turn.
Why KAWS is the most faked artist toy
KAWS sits at the intersection of high prices, mass name-recognition, and factory production — the exact combination counterfeiters love. Because Companions are cast vinyl produced in runs (rather than hand-made one-offs), a bootleg factory only needs to copy a mold and a paint mask to produce something that looks right in a phone photo. The result is a market where visual inspection alone is no longer enough at the top end, and where a working NFC / One COA check and a hands-on physical inspection do the real work.
Where the fakes come from
Understanding the supply chain tells you what to look for. KAWS fakes cluster into a few recognizable categories:
KO / bootleg factory copies
Unauthorized "knock-off" (KO) factories cast their own vinyl from copied molds and apply a copied paint mask. Quality ranges from crude to alarmingly close — the better "1:1 replicas" get the silhouette right but miss on weight, paint registration, the molded stamp, and above all the NFC record.
Bootlegged open editions
Open and widely-produced releases — Companion Open Edition, Holiday, BFF, Sesame Street / Uniqlo characters, Dissected / Flayed — are the most heavily copied because demand is broad and reference photos are everywhere. Popular color-ways (black, grey, blush/pink) are cloned first.
Box-stripped genuine figures
A real figure sold without its box loses a primary authenticator and a large slice of value. Sellers then pair a genuine-but-boxless figure with a fake box, or pair a bootleg figure with a scavenged real box. Always authenticate the figure and box independently.
Fake COAs & dead chips
Counterfeiters print convincing-looking certificate cards and even embed non-functional or generic NFC tags. A card that looks official but whose chip does not resolve to the One COA / KAWSONE record — or resolves to the wrong edition — is a manufactured prop, not proof.
Drop-shipped marketplace listings
The riskiest channels are new-account sellers on general marketplaces and social selling — figures priced well under market, "factory-error" or "sample" excuses, stock-photo images, and vague provenance. KAWS never released deliberately flawed figures, so "factory error" is a bootleg tell, not a feature.
Reissue confusion
Some characters exist in multiple years, sizes, and color-ways. Bootleggers exploit the confusion by mislabeling — e.g. calling an open-edition size a rarer limited release. Pin down the exact release before you judge the details.
Scan the chip first: NFC & One COA
For any modern KAWS release, this is authentication step #1. MEDICOM TOY / AllRightsReserved / DDT equip current-era figures with an embedded NFC chip tied to the One COA authentication registry (the same ARR / KAWSONE system used across recent drops). You verify it with nothing more than an NFC-capable phone — no special hardware, no login.
How the NFC / One COA verification works
The chip lives in the figure's base (or on an included tag/card). You hold a phone's NFC reader against it, and a genuine chip resolves to an official One COA verification page showing the figure's record. Crucially, the better ARR tags use dynamic authentication — each tap generates a fresh, single-use code that cannot be cloned — so a copied static tag will fail even if it "beeps."
- 1Enable NFC on the phone and remove any thick case. Locate the chip — typically molded into the base/foot area, or on the hang-tag / certificate card that shipped with the figure.
- 2Hold the top of the phone flat against the chip and keep it there. The ARR/DDT flow asks you to hold the tap for a few seconds, and some products require a second tap to complete verification — don't pull away early.
- 3Let it resolve to the official One COA / verification page and read the record: the edition, release/drop, and where shown the ownership chain should match the exact figure in your hand.
- 4Confirm the resolved record matches the figure — right character, color-way, and release. A chip that opens a generic page, a random URL, or the wrong edition is failing, not passing.
Note on scope: NFC / One COA verification applies to modern releases. Many older OriginalFake-era and early Medicom Companions predate the chip program — their absence of NFC is normal, and they are authenticated through the packaging, stamp, vinyl, scale, and paint checks below. Absence of NFC on a recent release that should have it is the red flag.
The zones to inspect on the Companion
After the chip, work the figure itself zone by zone. Counterfeit molds drift and copied paint masks smear, so the tells cluster in a handful of predictable places. Use the numbered map, then read each zone's authentic look versus the fake tell.
-
1The XX eyes
Authentic: the crossed-out "XX" eyes are bold, deeply set, and perfectly symmetrical — identical stroke width, matched horizontal alignment, crisp tampo-printed edges, and (on the Companion face) noticeably deep, thick nostril holes. Fake: Xs that are misaligned, smudged, or show ink bleeding; uneven stroke weight; one eye sitting higher than the other; or eyes applied as a sticker rather than printed into the surface. Even a millimeter of asymmetry is a fail.
-
2Head & ears
Authentic: the domed head and ears follow MEDICOM TOY's exact mold spec — smooth curvature, correct ear length and angle, and a head circumference that matches official reference photography. Fake: copied molds drift; a head that reads slightly too round, too flat, or off-proportion, and ears set at the wrong angle or length. Even a ~2 mm deviation in head circumference is detectable when compared side-by-side with a known-genuine figure.
-
3Hands & gloves
Authentic: the cartoon "gloved" hands are cleanly molded and precisely attached, with paint that stops exactly at the sculpted edge. Fake: poorly fitted or loosely attached hands, visible glue stains at the joints, and paint that overshoots or under-fills the glove line. The majority of fakes show their flaws at joints, articulation points, and paint transitions.
-
4Feet & the molded underside stamp
Authentic: the underside of the feet carries the molded copyright and maker's mark — the KAWS/© KAWS mark and the MEDICOM TOY (or OriginalFake) production line with the correct year and country. The text is crisply molded into the vinyl, correctly spelled, and in the right place. Fake: missing, mushy, misspelled, or mislocated stamps; wrong year; wrong or missing "MADE IN CHINA"; or a stamp that looks printed-on rather than molded-in. (Full detail in the next section.)
-
5Seams & paint registration
Authentic: clean, tight mold seams; even, low-glare finish; sharp color transitions with no overspray; deep matte blacks (not washed-out grey). Fake: rough or misaligned seams, color bleeding across boundaries, fuzzy edges, uneven gloss, and grey-looking "black." KAWS never released deliberately flawed figures — so any "factory error" excuse for sloppy paint is a bootleg tell.
-
6Dissected / Flayed internals
Authentic: on Dissected and Flayed Companions the exposed "anatomy" is a fixed, documented pattern — for example, the four-foot Dissected Companion has exactly ten painted ribs. Internal organ colors are cleanly separated and correctly placed. Fake: the wrong count (many fakes render only nine ribs), muddy or mis-registered organ colors, and internal detail that doesn't line up with the official reference for that release.
The underside stamp
The molded copyright text on the bottom of the feet is one of the most reliable physical authenticators, because it is cast into the vinyl rather than applied afterward. The exact wording varies by era and producer, so match it to the specific release — but the elements are consistent: the artist's mark, the manufacturer, the year, and country of manufacture. Companion figures are commonly stamped across both feet, with the artist mark on one foot and the fabricator line on the other.
Representative stamp patterns (confirm against your exact release — wording and year change by edition):
Left foot — artist mark
© KAWS ··YY
The KAWS copyright with the year of the release (e.g. an ’06 or ’09 figure carries that year). Crisply molded; correctly spelled "KAWS."
Right foot — fabricator line
MEDICOM TOY YYYY CHINA
The manufacturer, four-digit year, and country. OriginalFake-era pieces may read OriginalFake in the maker line instead of, or alongside, MEDICOM TOY.
These are representative examples drawn from documented Companion releases (2006, 2009, 2012–13, 2016, 2019 among them), not a universal template. The producer credit shifts between OriginalFake, MEDICOM TOY, and on newer figures AllRightsReserved / DDT — so the correct reference is always the specific edition. What matters: the stamp is present, cleanly molded (not printed), correctly spelled, carries the right year and "CHINA," and sits in the documented location.
Size & scale
Every Companion release is documented at a specific size, and bootlegs frequently come out the wrong height because they're cast from a re-scaled copy. Identify the exact release first, then measure and compare against the documented dimensions for that edition. A figure that is the wrong height — or that feels too light for its size — is suspect regardless of how it photographs.
| Common release format | Documented scale (approx.) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Companion Open Edition (vinyl) | ~11 in / ~28 cm tall | Widely produced (e.g. KAWSONE / museum releases). Common color-ways: black, grey, blush. Heavily bootlegged — verify stamp + weight. |
| Companion / Flayed Open Edition | ~10.5 × 4.5 × 2.5 in (≈16.7 × 11.4 × 6.4 cm) | Painted cast vinyl; documented box dimensions per release. Confirm the exact color-way and year. |
| Small-format Companion (e.g. "Small Lie") | ~10.5 in / ~27 cm tall | Sold with correct box + certificate; match the character and year to the box art. |
| Large / 4-ft Dissected Companion | ~4 ft class sculpture | Fixed internal anatomy — ten ribs on the documented Dissected. Higher value → higher forgery incentive. |
Figures are documented per release; the table above lists common formats as a starting reference only. Always confirm the exact edition, color-way, and year, then compare against that edition's published dimensions — do not authenticate on height alone, but treat a clear height mismatch as a serious flag.
Weight, vinyl & finish
Pick the figure up. An authentic KAWS vinyl feels solid and dense for its size, with consistent wall thickness and a quality heft. If it feels hollow or noticeably light, it is not a genuine KAWS. Bootleg vinyl is typically thinner and lighter, with a cheaper resonance when tapped and rougher casting throughout.
| Attribute | Authentic | Bootleg tell |
|---|---|---|
| Weight / density | Solid and dense for its size; consistent heft; does not feel empty. | Light, hollow, or empty-feeling; thin walls; cheap tap resonance. |
| Vinyl surface | Even, consistent finish; smooth where it should be smooth. | Rough or uneven casting, sink marks, and texture inconsistencies. |
| Mold seams | Clean, tight, well-aligned seams. | Rough, raised, or misaligned seams; visible flashing. |
| Paint registration | Sharp transitions, no overspray, colors stop exactly at the sculpted edge. | Bleeding, overspray, fuzzy boundaries, mis-registered color. |
| Gloss / tone | Even, correct sheen; deep matte blacks; on-tone color. | Uneven gloss; washed-out grey "black"; wrong or dull color tone. |
| Assembly | Parts perfectly attached; no glue stains at joints. | Glue stains, gaps, and poorly fitted parts at joints and articulation. |
The box & packaging
Packaging is both a primary authenticator and a major value component — a genuine figure without its box typically trades 30–40% below a complete equivalent, which is exactly why fake boxes and box-stripping are so common. Authenticate the box independently of the figure, because bootleggers mix and match.
Print quality & cardstock
Authentic OriginalFake / KAWS boxes use high-density coated cardstock with clean, foil-stamped typography, accurate kerning, and consistent baseline alignment. Fakes feel noticeably lighter, show pixelated or fuzzy print edges, and get the MEDICOM TOY logo proportions subtly wrong.
Hologram / authenticity sticker
Many authentic boxes carry a hologram label that shifts color as the box moves, plus a release-date sticker. Inspect it closely: a flat, static, or crudely printed "hologram," flaking foil, or a missing/wrong sticker is a warning sign.
Barcode & text
Barcodes should be crisp and correctly aligned; any kanji/Japanese text should be accurate and properly spaced. Fakes commonly show misaligned barcodes, garbled or mis-set characters, and off-register printing.
Colorway & graphics match
The box art, character, and color-way must match the figure inside and the documented release. A grey figure in a box printed for the black color-way — or box art that doesn't match any real release — signals a mismatched or fake pairing.
Inner tray & completeness
Correct inner tray/blister, any hang tags, and the certificate card (with NFC where applicable) should all be present and correct. Missing inserts or a certificate whose chip won't verify undercut the whole package.
Box size & proportions
Compare overall box dimensions, panel layout, and font sizing against a known-authentic example for that release. Wrong box size or spacing is a frequent, easily-missed tell.
Red flags at a glance
- Dead or non-resolving NFC on a modern release that should have one — or a chip that resolves to the wrong edition or a page that isn't the official One COA / KAWSONE registry.
- A convincing certificate card whose chip won't verify, or a printed "COA" with no scannable, resolvable record behind it.
- A figure that feels light or hollow — the single fastest physical tell that it isn't genuine KAWS vinyl.
- Asymmetric, smudged, or bleeding XX eyes, uneven stroke weight, or eyes applied as stickers rather than printed in.
- Missing, mushy, misspelled, or mislocated underside stamp; wrong year; missing "MADE IN CHINA"; or a stamp that looks printed rather than molded.
- Rough or misaligned mold seams, paint overspray/bleeding, glue stains at joints, or washed-out grey "black."
- Wrong height for the documented release, or a Dissected Companion with the wrong rib/organ pattern (e.g. nine ribs instead of ten).
- A box with pixelated print, a flat/fake "hologram," misaligned barcode, wrong logo proportions, or a color-way that doesn't match the figure.
- A "factory error," "sample," or "prototype" story used to explain flaws — KAWS did not release deliberately flawed figures.
- A price far below market for a "sealed" or "rare" Companion, stock-photo listings, and vague provenance — the classic bootleg profile.
Step-by-step verification checklist
- Scan the NFC / One COA first. On modern releases, tap the chip (base or certificate card), hold it, and confirm it resolves to the official One COA / KAWSONE record for the correct edition. A missing, dead, or wrong-resolving chip on a release that should have one is a stop sign.
- Identify the exact release and scale. Character, color-way, year, and format — then note the documented height/dimensions for that specific edition.
- Read the underside stamp. Confirm the molded artist mark and fabricator line (KAWS / OriginalFake / MEDICOM TOY, year, CHINA) are present, correctly spelled, molded-in, and in the right location for the era.
- Inspect the XX eyes. Symmetry, equal stroke width, crisp printed edges, deep-set nostrils — no bleed, smear, or sticker.
- Check head, ears, and hands. Correct proportions and ear angle; cleanly attached gloved hands with no glue stains; paint stopping at the sculpted edge.
- Heft it and read the vinyl. Solid and dense — reject anything light or hollow. Check seams, paint registration, gloss, and black tone.
- For Dissected / Flayed, verify the internals. Correct rib count and organ layout against the official reference for that release.
- Authenticate the box independently. Print quality, foil/hologram, barcode, colorway match, inserts, and box size — then confirm the box matches the figure and release.
- Cross-check records & provenance. Match edition data to MEDICOM TOY / AllRightsReserved release records and the seller's history. If bought from Gauntlet Gallery, verify the record via our COA lookup.
Frequently asked questions
What is the very first thing to check on a modern KAWS figure?
Scan the NFC chip. Modern KAWS releases from MEDICOM TOY / AllRightsReserved / DDT ship with an embedded NFC chip tied to the One COA (KAWSONE) registry. Hold an NFC-enabled phone against the chip (in the base or on the certificate card), keep it there for a few seconds, and confirm it resolves to the official verification page showing the correct edition and release. On tags with dynamic authentication, each tap generates a fresh, un-clonable code. A missing, dead, wrong-edition, or non-official-page result on a release that should include a chip is a major red flag.
Do all KAWS Companion figures have an NFC chip?
No. NFC / One COA verification is a feature of modern releases. Many older OriginalFake-era and early Medicom Companions predate the chip program, so the absence of NFC on an older release is normal — those are authenticated through packaging, the molded underside stamp, vinyl weight, scale, and paint. Absence of NFC on a recent release that is documented to include one, however, is a warning sign.
Can a fake KAWS come with a certificate or a chip?
Yes — and this is why "it has a COA" is not enough on its own. Counterfeiters print convincing certificate cards and sometimes embed generic or non-functional NFC tags. The test is whether the chip actually resolves to the official One COA / KAWSONE record for the correct edition. A card that looks official but whose chip won't verify, resolves to a random URL, or shows the wrong edition is a manufactured prop, not proof.
What does the underside foot stamp say on a real KAWS Companion?
The molded stamp on the underside of the feet carries the artist's copyright mark and the fabricator line — the KAWS/© KAWS mark with the release year, and the MEDICOM TOY (or OriginalFake, on that era) production line with the year and country ("CHINA"). Companions are commonly stamped across both feet. Exact wording changes by release and era, so match it to the specific edition; what matters is that it is present, cleanly molded (not printed), correctly spelled, with the right year and country, in the documented location.
How do I tell a bootleg by feel alone?
Pick it up. An authentic KAWS vinyl is solid and dense for its size. If it feels hollow or noticeably light, it is not genuine. Combine the weight test with a look at the mold seams (should be tight), the paint (sharp, no overspray or bleed), and the joints (no glue stains). Light-and-hollow plus sloppy seams and paint is the classic bootleg profile.
Are the XX eyes a reliable authentication point?
Yes. The crossed-out XX eyes should be bold, deeply set, and perfectly symmetrical, with identical stroke width, matched alignment, and crisp printed edges — plus deep nostril holes on the Companion face. Misaligned, smudged, or bleeding Xs, uneven stroke weight, or eyes applied as stickers are strong fake tells. Even a millimeter of asymmetry counts against it.
How can I authenticate a Dissected or Flayed Companion?
The exposed anatomy follows a fixed, documented pattern for each release. For example, the four-foot Dissected Companion has exactly ten painted ribs — many fakes render only nine. Check the rib count and the placement and color separation of the internal "organs" against the official reference for that exact release; muddy, mis-registered, or wrong-count internals indicate a copy.
Why does the original box matter so much?
For designer figures the original packaging is both a primary authenticator and a major value component — a genuine Companion without its box typically trades 30–40% below a complete or sealed equivalent. Because of that value, bootleg boxes and box-stripping are common, so authenticate the box independently: check print quality, foil/hologram, barcode, color-way match, inserts, and box size, and confirm the box matches the figure and release.
Are KAWS-designed BE@RBRICKs authenticated the same way?
KAWS has designed BE@RBRICK figures produced by Medicom, and they share the same logic — scan the NFC / One COA where present, then check the molded stamp, paint, and vinyl — but against BE@RBRICK's own standardized scale and foot-stamp conventions. For the BE@RBRICK-specific tells, see our how to spot a fake BE@RBRICK guide.
How do I verify a KAWS figure I already own?
Scan the NFC / One COA if the release includes one and confirm the edition, then read the underside stamp, check the XX eyes, heft the vinyl, and inspect seams, paint, and (on Dissected pieces) the internals — comparing each against the documented reference for that exact release. Authenticate the box independently. If you bought it from Gauntlet Gallery, verify the record on file via our COA lookup.
Buy KAWS with confidence
Every KAWS Companion at Gauntlet Gallery is checked against its NFC / One COA record where present, the molded underside stamp, the XX eyes, vinyl weight and paint, correct release scale, and the box — with a record you can verify.
Sources & methodology
This guide is compiled for educational purposes to help collectors inspect KAWS Companion figures; it is not an appraisal or a guarantee of authenticity for any specific item. Authentication details were cross-referenced across collector, dealer, and authentication sources including 1stDibs (The Study), SNKRDUNK Magazine, DDTStore / AllRightsReserved One COA, LegitCheck, and public MEDICOM TOY / OriginalFake release and auction records (Sotheby's, Phillips). The ~50% fake-rate figure reflects independent authentication comparisons of submitted KAWS toys. Exact stamp wording, dimensions, and NFC behavior vary by release — always confirm against the specific edition. When value is at stake, pair physical inspection with a resolvable One COA / KAWSONE record.